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The ability to film in low light conditions or even complete darkness is essential for many CCTV applications. Part of that ability is down to using the right electronics which are sensitive enough to work in low light, the other tool used is infrared or IR lighting.
Infrared light isn't visible to the human eye, but CCTV cameras switch to black and white as light levels fall and can film the IR light spectrum. This means that to the camera it's like shining a torch. IR has to bounce off something, but providing there is a hard surface to reflect the infrared, your camera can see in the dark.
Previously, cameras had separate infrared light lamps bolted onto the side of their housings. It made the whole unit considerable and industrial looking. In more recent times, cameras have been designed with IR lighting built into them. This greatly reduces their overall size and visual impact. It also reduces cost when compared to modular cameras using separate lighting units.
Many people selling CCTV cameras describe them in terms of the infrared range. Do not confuse this with the optical range of the camera or the distance at which a camera can record detail. That is determined by the lens. Wider angle lenses will have a shorter optical range, more telephoto lenses a longer range. The IR range is a largely immaterial figure, often made up, and is supposed to represent the distance at which the camera's infrared can be detected. In reality, the ability of a camera is a combination of the lens, how powerful the IR is and how sensitive the electronics are.
Something you might see mentioned is an IR cut filter. This is a mechanical filter that moves in front of the camera lens during the daytime. The filter is designed to improve color rendition during daylight filming. Electronic adjustments can also be made to the camera to improve color representation.
We get numerous calls from people experiencing problems with their CCTV cameras at night. They install a CCTV system during the day, then at night find they have issues. We have created this page to cover some of the most common symptoms and causes.
No image at night
The biggest worry is not seeing anything on the screen. All the things you would look at during the day should be checked. Make sure the camera has power, ensure all the connections are secure and that the infrared is illuminating (this will mean power is getting through to the camera). If that is all in order, then stand in front of the camera quite close to it. Infrared needs to bounce off a surface back into the camera. If you just point the camera into space, it won't see anything.
If you have bought a camera with a long-range, 20 or 30 meters plus from someone, and you are expecting it to work at that distance, don't rely on quoted specs. IR range is almost made up and shouldn't be used as a guide to effective range. You could be trying to film too far away. Stand closer to the camera and see if you can see an image. Failing that, you may be suffering a voltage drop.
Voltage drop
One of the most common problems experienced is voltage drop. When the IR illuminates the power requirement of the camera increases, if the cable run is too long or there isn't enough copper you will experience a voltage drop. This could cause the camera to stop working altogether. It could also cause the camera to cycle on and off. The IR illuminates, which causes the camera to switch off. The camera re-starts and works until the IR switches on again. You may also see image deterioration when a voltage drop occurs. If you are using a CAT5 cable to join the cameras to the DVR and power supply, make sure you are using a pure copper cable rather than CCA or copper-clad aluminum. Wire the cameras as per our guide to using CAT5 cable in CCTV. In particular, make sure you use 3 pairs of wires for the 12-volt supply.
A white screen or white areas on the screen
This is another common issue. If you see a white screen at night or a white haze, then the most likely cause is infrared light reflecting back into the camera lens. The wider the angle of view, the more chance there is of this happening. Have you got the camera's sun visor too far forward? We suggest having the rear of the visor in line with the back of the camera body. Is there something just out of shot but in front of the camera which can reflect IR back into the camera, guttering, and soffits are common culprits? On vandal dome cameras, check to make sure any sealing rings which fit between the lens and the inside of the clear plastic cover are securely in place.
Whilst you can't see the infrared light in the camera, it is extremely bright, and any surface close to the front of the camera can reflect the light back into the lens. Even if the surface is out of the screenshot, it can still reflect the IR. If you can't move the camera, try zooming it in more, so you narrow the field of view. Light pollution from other sources can also cause white areas to appear on the screen. Vandal dome cameras are particularly prone to corruption from external light sources.
A camera mounted inside a window produces a white image at night
Well, it will do. The glass is a reflective surface which is right in front of the camera. The infrared will bounce off the glass straight into the lens, causing the camera to dazzle itself. It's a bit like taking a flash photograph in front of a window at night.
General image deterioration at night
When the infrared switches on, the camera draws more current. If your power supply is not powerful enough, this extra current draw could cause problems. Moreover, make sure you have not exceeded the recommended cable run length and that the cable is substantial enough. Voltage drops along the length of the cable and the thinner the cross-sectional area of the cable the more this happens.
General haziness of the image at night, with some movement on the screen
Check the camera for spider webs. During the day, you don't notice spider webs. The camera focuses beyond the web and it appears invisible. At night, the infrared bounces off the web, and it shows clearly. We do sell a spider spray to help reduce this concern.
Moving spots in front of the camera at night
This is similar to the spider's web difficulty, but instead of a web, the light is reflecting off dust or particles in the air. This is particularly noticeable in fog, where the water droplets suspended in the air reflect the infrared. Warm currents in the air can cause particles to rise as well as fall.
This isn't an exhaustive list of problems encountered at night, but it covers the most common ones.
The motion-detected recording is a feature on all our DVR recorders. The DVR monitors camera images and decides when it thinks there is movement. To accomplish this, the DVR looks at individual image frames and compares them to the previous one. If it sees differences, then motion is assumed to have taken place. It is the DVR, not the cameras, which are looking for movement.
A DVR isn't as intelligent as you or me and can't differentiate between background movement, changes in light and someone coming to break into your property. To help minimize false triggers, it is possible to limit where on the screen the DVR looks for movement and limit this to a small area or numerous areas. You don't have to use the full screen. You can set the trigger area using the setup menu on the DVR, you can also set the trigger area remotely if the DVR is connected to your local network / the internet.
Some people only record footage when motion is detected in an attempt to extend the time footage is stored. We are not big fans of doing this. We would rather see motion triggering being used to create bookmarks within 24/7 recording, rather than the sole means of capturing footage. Use it to identify which sections might be important but still have constant footage on either side of the trigger.
Systems that use motion triggering as the sole method of recording are usually trying to compensate for too little memory. We recommend allowing 250 GB of hard drive space per camera on SD systems, and 500 GB per camera on HD systems.
A CCTV system will be based around a DVR or digital video recorder. CCTV cameras are connected to the DVR using cables and there will be some ancillary items such as a power supply for the cameras.
DVR or digital video recorder
The digital video recorder is the centerpiece of the surveillance apparatus. All the camera inputs are considered, arranged on the screen for live viewing, and footage is saved onto a hard drive for later viewing. Our DVRs record all the cameras regardless of what you are viewing live on your monitor. It is possible to view 1 camera at a time or several cameras in various combinations depending on how many channels the DVR supports. We sell 4, 8 and 16 channel DVRs which are suitable for 4, 8 or 16 cameras respectively. They can be combined, so 2 16 channel DVRs could host a 32 camera CCTV system.
Our DVR recorders also support remote access over the internet. You need to connect the DVR to your internet router. This can be done either with a cable, a power bridge adapter that uses your electrical wiring or a wireless network point. Then wherever you are in the world, you can view live footage from your cameras, see previously recorded footage, make backups of important events and even make settings changes to the DVR.
CCTV cameras are the most essential thing to get right, and we have devoted quite a bit of space on our website to help you make the right choice. We are always glad to offer help and advice if you are planning a CCTV system, so pick up the phone and give us a call. We can take a look at your property using Google Earth images whilst talking through your specific requirements and select which cameras will best suit your requirements.
The cable from the DVR to the camera does 2 jobs. It transfers video from the camera back to the DVR, and it supplies 12-volt power to the camera. Video connection is via a BNC connector. If the cable is CAT5, then the BNC connector will be part of the video balun. 12-volt power connections are 5.5 mm jack plugs. At the camera end, there is a DC plug, and at the DVR end a DC socket into which the 12-volt power supply for the camera connects. For this reason, you would normally locate the camera power supply next to the DVR unit. The DVR will be supplied with its own 12-volt power supply.
PTZ camera advice
PTZ stands for Pan, Tilt, Zoom. A PTZ camera can be remotely controlled, allowing it to move up and down, as well as zoom in on potentially important targets. You can also program a tour between pre-set points. In theory, PTZ cameras sound great, they can cover large areas and even zoom in when more detail is required.
The downsides of using a PTZ camera
PTZ cameras are expensive, certainly good ones are. There are a few low-quality products on the market aimed at the bottom end of the DIY market, these should be avoided. However, the biggest problem with PTZ cameras is that you need a full-time operator to control them. When pointing in one direction, they can't see elsewhere.
When a camera is moving, the image will be blurry, so you can't see any detail or identify people. Therefore, when the camera is placed on a tour between predetermined points, a significant portion of the recording will be blurred.
Infrared illumination is often not fitted to PTZ cameras, meaning they are less effective at night. It is possible to find PTZ cameras with effective IR and our PTZ cameras feature zoom sensitive IR which increases brightness as you zoom in, the assumption being you are hoping to see further away.
Latency when remote accessing the cameras. When remote accessing PTZ cameras, there is a delay between when you ask the camera to move and when you see the result of that movement on your remote monitor or computer. This is known as latency, and it can make it difficult to accurately control PTZ cameras remotely over the internet.
Consider fitting more fixed cameras
Rather than use a PTZ camera, consider fitting more fixed cameras for the same cost as a single PTZ camera. That way you will cover all the views all the time. You also don't need the expense of a full-time operator. There are some “self-tracking” cameras that identify targets and keep following them, the problem is: The image will be blurred when the camera moves and how does the camera know whom to track when faced with multiple targets. Thieves often work in gangs.
PTZ cameras do have their uses, but in the vast majority of cases, you are better off using more fixed cameras.
What parts do I require?
A pair of video baluns are used to send video along the CAT5e cable. One is at the DVR end and the other is at the camera end. We offer two distinct categories of video baluns, namely Standard definition and High definition, which are specifically designed for use with our HD 1080P cameras and DVR recorders. The transmission of power is accomplished through the use of screw-in DC plugs and sockets. The camera's plug connects to the camera's socket, while the DVR's plug connects to the recorder's socket. Locate the camera power supply close to the DVR.
Use the correct type of CAT5e cable
The cable must be pure copper. Some CAT5 cables are not pure copper, but are instead coated with copper or copper-coated aluminum. Don't rely on the label or what the retailer says, actually check the cable yourself. CAT5, CAT5e, CAT6 and CAT6e can all be CCA rather than pure copper. When bent, CCA tends to break easily, and you can scrape the copper off to reveal silver-colored metal in the center. All the cable we sell is pure copper external grade.
Don't exceed the maximum cable run
The maximum distance a video signal can be transferred with our video baluns is approximately 985ft (ca. 300 m). If you are using the cable to power a camera as well as transfer a video signal, then we would suggest a maximum distance of about 165 ft (50.29 m) to avoid voltage drop. This assumes you are using 3 pairs of wire for 12 volt supply and 1 pair for video signal transfer, as per our images below.
It is recommended to adhere to a color convention, maintain strict adherence to it, and conduct thorough checks.
It is important to check your wiring carefully. Choose a color convention and stick to it. In the examples below, we have used blue for the video signal and solid color for +ve, white plus a colored stripe for -ve.
You need to run 1 length of CAT5e cable from the DVR recorder to each camera. The cable is going to do 2 jobs. One pair of wires will handle the video signal, and the other 3 pairs of wires will be combined to take 12-volt power from the transformer located next to the DVR to the camera.
Firstly, identify the polarity for all your connectors
I wanted to install my security system and save the money on the installation cost, the easy part was running the cable was the easy part.
After I set up and installed all the cables and cameras, I needed help making it work, and you guys are the best. Logged in remotely configured everything for my system, it has been over a year, no problems whatsoever. Thank you, team Collsam!

WELCOME TO COLLSAM SECURITY
Use this coupon code at checkout:
Excludes sale items. Cannot be combined with another coupon.